In inimitable fashion writer Lynn Yaeger’s touching Vogue magazine tribute to the late iconic street photographer Bill Cunningham, she cited what appealed to Bill was “an anonymous person with a deep desire to look a certain way, to see + be seen for reasons buried deep in the psyche, as mysterious as the impulse for decoration itself,” which immediately resonated with each + every portrait of the vast array of characters within Ari Seth Cohen’s book ‘Advanced Style: Older & Wiser’, published by powerHouse Books.
It first started as a blog of the same name eight years ago. After the loss of his grandmother + best friend Bluma, he was able to pay tribute to them. The blog recorded the style + stories of some of the city’s most inspiring older people. Never in Ari’s wildest dreams did he think what this kind of inspiration would turn into. It blossomed into a “global movement re-imagining the picture of aging”. This passion project proved one can look forward to their later years. Years full of being the most productive, liberating, and rich chapters of your life.
(photo: Barbara Chapman, Solana Beach, CA + Ignacio Quiles, Providence, RI)
And like most ‘dreams do come true’ stories, since the publication of this first book + the release of the ‘Advanced Style’ documentary, besides the rest being marked as history, it’s been quite an adventure for Ari taking him from Sydney to Tokyo, Rome to Buenos Aires, to meet incredibly stylish + inspirational ladies + gentlemen whose creativity stumps most people forty to twenty years their junior, which lots might find preposterous. But I guarantee that these same disbelievers would be awestruck as many ‘Advanced Style’ fans are upon gazing at truly unique, chic + stylish characters.
(photo: Derrill Osborn, Dallas + Sarah Jane Adams, Sydney Australia)
(photo: Angelo Gallamini Rimini, Italy + Lana Turner 5th Avenue, NY, NY)
Of course, with aging being incredibly stigmatized by American society, enabled by the rise in plastic surgery + weirdo ‘get young quick’ concoctions thanks to the Frankenstein hybrids of pharmaceuticals with beauty products, not to mention the rise in popularity of celeb beauty regimens, age-appropriateness STILL gets much attention, pushing those with ‘advanced style’ to the fringe. But with positive validation, if not celebratory accolades, Ari’s subjects are anything but influencers + trendsetters amongst us all. As Creative Ambassador-at-Large of the New York City-based clothing store Barneys, Simon Doonan asks,” Are the ‘Advance Style’ gals + guys at a disadvantage because of their age? Au contraire! Age has emboldened them to adorn themselves with individuality + creativity,” + no one instills this more than ‘Advance Style’s cover girl Valerie von Sobel, President of the Andre Sobel River of Life Foundation.
I had the pleasure of sending over a few questions for Valerie to answer, to get to the bottom of the when + how she arrived at mastering her sense of style to this high level of ingenious creativity + the following are some of her answers. I asked Valerie when did she become aware of fashion as a form of self-expression. What set her apart from everyone else? Her calling came at eight years old. After positive reactions from fellow third-grade classmates, she knew she was onto something. How could she not after wrapping herself in her mother’s large summer scarf as part of her lecture to fellow 3rd graders about Scheherazade + the seven veils?
(photo: Valerie Sobel, President, Andre Sobel River of Life Foundation)
Naming her mom as her fashion role model, she had big shoes to fill. Her mom’s sense of style was shaped by intuition. Valerie said, “Living under the regime of Communist Russia was a great equalizer. Since no luxuries were available to anyone, people who were capable to stand out did so on their talents and wits. I am not sure that standing out was all that safe either.”
“How did I know she was chic? I studied her, compared her to others, and importantly had four issues of Vogue magazine among my treasures. My darling aunt from NY slipped it in a package of clothing that came regularly each Christmas. I will never forget my 90-pound body in the cornflower blue Latex bathing suit. I knew that I never wanted to wear anything that was not becoming, feminine or ill-fitting.”
This is probably why corsets are her favorite mainstay in her wardrobe accentuating her small waist.
(photo: Valerie Sobel, President, Andre Sobel River of Life Foundation)
Although not a fan of trends, Valerie preferred observing them. Valerie’s criteria have always been about how inventive + original what she wears is. a lesson worth branding onto the brains of most amidst the sea of carbon copies devoid of any authenticity or style to call their own these days. Valerie said, “Confidence in style is a process, + you need to master some principles before you can dismiss them. Breaking the rules comes from a discerning eye, when you know what works, rather than what is “acceptable” or fashionable.
“The first stage is striving for elegance + fitting in, than the desire to shine (not everyone is comfortable with standing out)… it comes much later when one throws away the rules + starts experimentation… which is when you become original. Art is a bit like this,” making you, the end product, a work of art in + of itself.
Patterns, silhouettes + accessories appear to be very important to all of these colorful subjects, as you leaf through the pages. But for Valerie, it’s always been about one thing. Valerie said, “For me, it’s all about accessories. From harnesses to collars, to hats + jewelry + glasses + neckties + bowties, + bibs + cuffs + belts + cufflinks + nose rings, + ear cuffs, braces for trousers + … endless,” to which I couldn’t agree more.
Partial to patterns myself, like Valerie, I also agree on finding beauty equally in monotones.
(photo: Valerie Sobel, President, Andre Sobel River of Life Foundation with Author + Photographer, Ari Seth Cohen)
As for Valerie’s last words of style wisdom, she said a mouthful. “If you are interested, you will develop an instinct. If you have the instinct you will combine masterfully + will never again depend on a trend, you will make your own.” She did add offer this comical piece of styling advice: “Only wear purple feathers in your nostrils under duress,” + who could argue with any of this really?
Remember, as you leaf through the pages of ‘Advanced Style’, you’re losing yourself in the personification of fantasy becoming real. Remember to be like Ari. Gaze upon “those whose artful + creative dressing is a reflection of their indomitable spirits + the refusal to become invisible.”
Get inspired to stand out + live life out loud!
‘Advanced Style: Older & Wiser’, by Ari Seth Cohen, published by Powerhouse Books, is available for purchase at powerhousebooks.com.